Stairs, stairs, and more stairs

Ah Lyon. It is hot, is muggy, it is glorious. Yes, as usual, I am traveling during a European heat wave. Thankfully I decided against the charming hotel that had no air conditioning and went for the charming (and somewhat more expensive) one that did. It has been a life saver.

Today I decided to head up to the Basilica Notre Dame de Fourviere. It perches high over the old town (Vieux Lyon), it's golden angel gleaming in the summer sun, the white walls seeming to almost sparkle. The funicular to Fourviere is not working, but the one to St. Just is. Hooray! On the map it isn't that far, and heck, you can take in the ruins of two Roman amphitheater on the way. Well, it wasn't exactly that close, and there were more stairs and hills to climb - but well worth the effort. The ruins are amazing and the museum built for them is pretty spectacular. The amphitheater, the larger of the two (the smaller was an Odeon, a theater used exclusively for musical performances) is still being used as a venue for performing arts. I watched a group of young dancers rehearsing for a bit.

Then on to the Basilica - more stairs, more hills and then this absolutely huge church. There are no less than four chapels - one downstairs (think basement), one upstairs - each with the vaulted naves, each with gloriously painted walls, spectacular stained glass, marble altars, and scores of renaissance paintings donated by grateful parishioners. It was stunning. But then - oh my. The view over Lyon, over the region really, was unbelievable. I doubt my pictures will do it justice, as there was a mighty humidity haze lingering over the area. Still. Wow.

With all this glory in front of me, and the notion that it was, after all, downhill; I decided to walk back. That too was pretty wonderful. The area below the Basilica is all in garden. Lovely little paths switchback down the hill, small arbors, little areas that lead to statues and benches just begging for you to sit and enjoy the sounds of birds, cicadas, and the rustling of the wind in the leaves. Stands of lavender, roses, other flowers; cheeky little birds that completely unafraid pop out of the bushes at odd points, it was just beautiful. Eventually you come back to civilization and are faced with the longest downhill flight of stairs. Ever. By the time I got to the bottom, I was ready for the Cafe Fichelle, their quiche Lorraine and salade verte, and okay, yes. A beer.