Putting a Cork in It

This afternoon I arrived in Cork. It is a lovely little town on the River Lee, that is a nice mix of old and new. My hotel looks right over the river, and is quite comfortable though labyrinthine in scope (the lift is a bit frightening, it makes an amazing array of noises that just don't sound good!). I had asked about Cork at the Tourist Information center in Dublin, mainly because I couldn't find a room in Galway (yes, I know, I am a bit bitter). The woman smiled at me and said "Well, yes, I suppose. But it's just another big city now isn't it?" "Oh." I thought "Another big city, hmmm." Then I consulted my Lonely Planet Ireland which tells me that Cork has a population of 119,000. Dublin has half a million. So I'm not sure if it qualifies as "another big city!" But I am learning that there is a bit of a rivalry between the two places, and it is amusing.

When I left this morning, the gentleman at the hotel asked where I was off to, I said Cork. His response? "Oh, really? It's a lovely place, quite a bit like here you know." When I arrived, the woman at the front desk asked (after establishing that I had been traveling in Ireland) "Where are you coming from then?" to which I said Dublin. "Ah" she replied, "Nice place, if you like that sort of thing." The Irish, it appears, are the masters of the backhanded compliment.

So after a very scenic and pleasant train ride, I grabbed a taxi at Kent Station (everywhere I go, that name appears); okay, I grabbed the taxi after I headed off in the wrong direction for the hotel and ended up having to turn around and trundle back to the station...), settled in at my hotel and then went out to explore. Cork loves music. In any way shape or form. In the short walk from the hotel to the tourist information office I passed a half dozen music shops. I was tempted by two absolutely beautiful mandolins. No, I know I don't play the mandolin. But still. I passed no less than that many buskers, and two different groups of dancing teenagers. Pretty wonderful.

I am told that the pubs here are filled with traditional music and I hope to sample some of that as well in this trip. Currently, however, I am sampling another wonderful aspect of Cork. Cheese. Yep. Cheese. Cork was the major butter producing center of this part of the world at one point. They even have a museum - the Cork Butter Museum. And now, all that dairy know-how has been applied to farmstead cheeses. YUM! Good stuff, highly recommend it.

Tomorrow I am off for some sight seeing. At the moment I am debating between a trip to Bantry and one to Kinsale. Monday I am on the road again. Still thinking about Belfast, even though the recent events have made me wonder if this is the right time. The 12th of July, Orangemen's Day, is the beginning of the traditional and political "marching season' in the North. This year there numerous skirmishes, some of which turned into riots in places like Omagh and Belfast. This has continued for the last few days, but seems to be settling down. It is sad, considering how hard so many have worked to bring peace to the area. Some folks just can't let it go, I suppose. So fingers are crossed that I might just be able to make a quick trip before heading back to London.